Though the designs I work up are indeed my own inspirations … I did use a foundational pattern (printed out in original form below) found during an internet search I did.
Ditto for the Preemie Hat & Tube Socks Patterns (not sure where I found these, it was so long ago).
For this posting, I am showing a simple worked preemie sleep sack that was worked strictly according to this posted pattern, so you can see the actual finished result ;-)
Preemies hold a special place in my heart - I was a 5 lb. preemie when born 6 decades years ago; I have a nephew, and 2 nieces that were born preemies … Jammie Lee, being the smallest: she was born so early her head circumference was the size of a tennis ball - very small and the chances of her surviving was frightening. But they all survived to grow into healthy and robust adults.
Preemie clothing offered through the hospital is extravagantly expensive; so, I make my preemie sets for charitable outreach through pro-life pregnancy centers. So far, they have been welcomed and appreciated.
2 to 4 lb. Knit Girl Preemie Sacque; & 1 to 2 lb. Knit Boy Preemie Sacque.
Mrs. Brak's Drawstring Bottom Baby Kimono with Raglan Shaping ~ by: Georgia Porter/May 24, 2008
This pattern is an adaptation and expansion of the original pattern [Large Preemie to Newborn Kimono] by Lois Walters available on the Hearts of Gold website.
Notes: I loved this kimono/nightgown style sleeper when my children were babies. The drawstring bottom keeps their little feet warm even if they manage to kick off booties or socks.
If you add a matching cap and booties you will have a wonderful gift for new babies. I try to keep a set for a girl, boy and a neutral color on hand so that I have a baby gift ready to go. It is much easier to make a set when you are not in a rush to knit a shower gift. Please read through this pattern completely before starting to familiarize yourself with the instructions.
Size: Large Preemie to Newborn [4-8 lbs]
This pattern can be made larger or smaller simply by switching yarn and needle size: Small to medium preemie [2-4 lbs] use size 3 or 4 needles and fingering wt yarn 3 months = worsted yarn and size 7 needles; 6 months size = worsted wt yarn and size 8 needles.
Gauge: I worked the gauge swatch for the 4-8 lb size only
22 sts and 30 rows= 4” in Stockinette St on size 6 needles
Skill level: Easy [an advanced beginner could make this project]
Skills Required: Cast on [long tail or knitted],knit, purl , yo, increase [yo, knit into front and back of st or M1], knit 2 together knit in the round on 1 circular needle, slip st from left to right needle without knitting, I-cord, bind off
Materials: 1 skein TLC Baby [this is sport weight yarn] note: you may substitute any sport or DK weight yarn; size 6 12-16” circular needles; 2 size 4 [3.5 mm] DPNS or a size E crochet hook [for knitted/crocheted drawstring] or 36” purchased narrow drawstring cord [30” for small preemie size]; 4 stitch markers; 6 split ring stitch markers or a small amount of contrasting color yarn; 2 stitch holders or 2 8'10” pieces of yarn; tape measure; gauge ruler; scissors; yarn needle.
Buttons and Trims: you will not need all of these … many options are available: 3 1/4-3/8” buttons [may use larger decorative buttons and put snaps underneath]; 3 snaps small to medium snaps. I prefer the clear plastic ones [if using larger decorative buttons or to use alone]; sewing thread to match color of yarn to sew on buttons and/or snaps; hand sewing needle; 2 yds of 1/4-1/2” ribbon if you would like to thread ribbon through optional eyelets at neckband and cuffs. This is especially pretty for little girls; 1 yd drawstring cord if you don't want to make the cord your self; drawstring pull...[ these are either ball or barrel shaped fasteners that let you thread the cord through and then use the fastener to tighten the drawstring to where you want it. ] These work best with either purchased drawstring cord or I-cord. A crocheted chain cord tends to get hung up in the drawstring fastener.
Abbreviations:
K=knit
P=purl
K2tog=knit 2 stitches together
st(s)=stitch(es)
yn=yarn needle
yo=yarn over
DPN(S): double pointed needle(s)
Neckband:
Note: You may use one of 3 options for the neckband. You will use the same method on the cuffs as well.
Cast on 40 stitches using either a long-tail or knitted cast on using the size 6 needle and working flat. The neckband is worked over 6 rows.
Option 1: work 6 rows of garter st [knit every row]
Option 2: work 6 rows of 1x1 [k1,p1 across row] or 2x2 [k2,p2] ribbing. This is really cute and sporty for a baby boy
Option 3: Eyelet pattern . This may be threaded with ribbon or left as is. Very pretty for baby girls especially if you add ribbon
Rows 1 and 2: knit all stitches
Row 3: K4, *yo, k2tog*, repeat * to * to last 4 sts, K4
Row 4: K4, purl 32, K4
Rows 5 and 6: knit all stitches
Begin working in Stockinette stitch [knit 1 row, purl 1 row]
Row 7: knit
Row 8: K4, P4, place marker, P6, place marker, P12, place marker, P6, place marker, P4,K4
Raglan sleeve marking …
Note: the stitch markers divide for right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve, and left front -
Begin Raglan shaping: You have a choice of different increase methods. You may use a yo, which leaves a little hole and is very decorative and pretty for baby girls. Or you may knit into the front and back of the increase stitch or use the M1 increase. Use the one you like.
Either of the increases will be fine. Just be sure to use the same increase each time. Increases are placed before and after each marker.
For the yo increase: knit to the marker, yo, slip the marker, yo For the knit into the front and back increase: knit to the stitch before the marker knit into the front of the stitch as usual but do not pull it off the left hand needle, knit into the back of the stitch and pull it off the left needle, slip marker, repeat with the stitch after the marker.
For the M1 increase: knit to the stitch to the marker, place the bar of yarn below the needle in front of the marker on the left hand needle, knit this stitch, slip marker, place the bar of yarn below the needle in front of the marker on the left hand needle, and knit this stitch.
Row 9: K7, increase, slip marker, increase, K4, increase, slip marker, increase,K10, increase, slip marker, increase,K4, increase, slip marker, increase,K7 [48 sts on needle]
Row 10: K4, purl to last 4 sts,K4
Row 11: knit to marker 1, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 2, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 3,increase,slip marker, increase, knit to marker 4, increase, slip marker, increase knit to end of row [56 sts ]
Row 12: K4, purl to last 4 sts,K4
Row 13: repeat row 11 [64 sts]
Row 14: repeat row 12
Row 15: repeat row 11 [72 sts]
Row 16: repeat row 12
Row 17: repeat row 11 [80 sts]
Row 18: repeat row 12
Buttonhole 1: Mark the end of this row by tying a small piece of contrasting yarn to the last stitch in the row. If you will be using snaps or a large decorative button with a snap underneath instead, mark the beginning and end of the row and knit to the 1st marker instead of making the K2, yo, K2tog buttonhole at the beginning of Row 19.
Row 19: K2, yo, K2tog, knit to marker 1, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 2, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 3,increase,slip marker, increase, knit to marker 4, increase, slip marker, increase knit to end of row [88 sts]
Row 20: K4, purl to last 4 sts, K4
Row 21: knit to marker 1, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 2, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to marker 3,increase,slip marker, increase, knit to marker 4, increase, slip marker, increase, knit to the end of row [96 sts]
Row 22: K4, purl to last 4 sts, K4
Row 23: repeat row 21 [104 sts]
Row 24: repeat row 22
Row 25: repeat row 21 [112 sts]
Row 26: repeat row 22
Row 27: repeat row 21 [120 sts]
Row 28: repeat row 22
Raglan shaping is now complete
Divide sleeves and body
Row 29: [remove markers as you come to them] K18 [right front sts], cast on 4 sts, slip 26 sts to stitch holder for right sleeve or [slip them onto a piece of yarn using yarn needle and then tie ends of yarn together so the sts don't slip off] K32 [back sts], cast on 4 sts, slip 26 sts to stitch holder for left sleeve,K18 [left front sts] [76 sts on needle]
Sleeve sts slipped to a safety pin 'holder' for XSm preemie sizing (use regular small st holders for regular preemie & newborn gowns).
Body of Sacque joined for 1 piece under sleeve openings.
Row 30: K4, P68, K4
Row 31: Knit all sts
Row 32: K4,P68, K4
Row 33: repeat row 31
Row 34: repeat row 32
Row 35: repeat row 31
Row 36: repeat row 32
Row 37: repeat row 31
Row 38: repeat row 32
Row 39 [buttonhole row: use same method as row 19 and marking end[s] of row]: K2,yo,K2tog, [this is buttonhole omit if using snaps] knit to the end of the row.
Row 40: K4, P68,K4
Row 41: Knit all sts
Row 42: K4, P68,K4
Row 43-58: repeat rows 41 and 42 x 8 times
Row 59 [buttonhole row: use same method as row 19 and marking end[s] of row]: repeat row 39
Buttonhole markings; I opted to use button & snaps closure.
Row 60: K4,P68,K4
Begin working body of kimono in the round
Row 61: Knit to last 4 sts. Bind off the last 4 sts. Place a marker [this marks the beginning/end of the round and is the center front of the garment] join and begin work stockinette stitch in the round [Knit all stitches in every round] until the kimono measures 12” for preemies/16” for newborns measured from the armhole. [measure from row where the body and sleeves were divided].
Note: if you are changing the size work to 10” for a small to medium preemie,18” for 3 months, and 20” for 6 months size.
Next row: *yo, K2tog*, repeat sts between * across round
Work 2 rounds of garter st [ knit 1 round, purl 1 round]
Bind off all sts.
Gown body completed; drawstring needed.
Sleeves
Note: the sleeve is knit flat and then seamed. Slipping the 1st stitch of every row will prevent the stockinette stitch from curling and will make it easier to seam when the sleeve is complete.
Place sts from holder back on needle.
Row 1: Slip 1 st, knit to the end of row
Row 2: Slip 1 st, purl to the end of row
Rows 3-20: repeat rows 1 and 2 x 9 times
Cuff: Work a 6 row cuff using the same method as used for neck band.
Rows 1 and 2: knit all stitches
Row 3: K4, *yo, k2tog*, repeat * to * to last 4 sts, K4
Row 4: K4, purl to the last 4 sts K4
Rows 5 and 6: knit all stitches
Bind off all stitches
Repeat for sleeve pattern for the 2nd sleeve
Finishing:
1. Sleeves: Sew sleeve seams with right sides together.
2. Drawstring: use 36” purchased narrow drawstring cord , or use size 4 dpns to make 36” of I-cord or size E crochet hook and make a 36” chain.
To make I-cord: Cast on 4 sts to size 4 double pointed needle.
Row 1: Knit 4 sts.
Row 2: Without turning work switch the right hand needle to your left hand and knit 4 sts.
Pull yarn tight. This will pull the yarn into a tube.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the desired length is reached. Bind off all sts.
Thread drawstring through the eyelets at the bottom of kimono and attach drawstring fastener according to package directions.
3. Buttons and/or snaps: Sew on buttons, decorative buttons and snaps, or just snaps in the center of the button band (4 knit sts at beginning and end of marked rows) to correspond to buttonholes. If you did not use buttonholes ..center snaps on the inside of the band so they are not seen on the outside of garment. Decorative buttons can be sewn on the outside of button band over the top of the snap.
Buttons & snaps sewn to the front …
4. Weave in all loose yarn tails securely and trim excess.
I generally leave a 6-8” tail when I cast on and bind off and then weave in 3-5” on the wrong side of the work and then trim off the excess yarn.
5. OPTIONAL: Thread ribbon through eyelets at neckband and cuffs -
Cut ribbon as follows: 1 piece 36” long and 2 pieces 18” long [1-24” piece and 2-12” pieces for small preemie size]
Thread longest piece of ribbon through large eyed yarn needle. Staring on the wrong side of the garment come up through the 1st eyelet hole on either the right or left side of the neckband leaving an approximately 3/4-1” tail. Weave in and out of the eyelet holes going down to the wrong side in the last hole. Make sure ribbon isn't twisted or pulled too tight [you don't want to gather the neckband] cut a 3/4-1” tail. Fold the ribbon ends under and sew down securely on the wrong side with thread that matches yarn color and sewing needle being very careful that the stitches do not show on the right side.
Cuffs:
Option 1: Repeat instructions for neckband ribbon using one of the shorter pieces of ribbon.
Option 2: This option will form a cuff gathered at the wrist -
Weave ribbon through the eyelets staring at the center of the side opposite the sleeve seam leaving the ribbon ends free on the outside. Tie ends into a small bow. Trim ends of ribbon diagonally so that they do not fray. When dressing baby be careful not to pull the ends too tight.
Pat yourself on the back and give to your favorite baby. I include a small mesh [lingerie] bag with my hand knitted gifts with a small card giving laundering instructions tucked inside.
Finished; & ready for delivery.
This adapted and expanded pattern is copyrighted to Georgia Porter on May 24,2008. Please do not sell this pattern or garments made from it. Do not post this on any website or as your own work. You may link to the pattern only. You may make 1 copy for personal use. If you would like to use this pattern to teach a class or wish to sell garments made from it for charity please contact me via email at GPORTER@ec.rr.com
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PREEMIE BABY HAT ~pattern also includes newborn to 6 month sizing
Preemie Hat to match gown.
Sizing: XSmall Preemie (2-3 lbs): 11" head circumference & 4" hat height; Small Preemie (4-5 lbs): 12" head circumference & 4-1/2" hat height; Preemie (5 - 6 lbs): 13" head circumference & 5" hat height; Newborn: 14" head circumference & 6" hat height; 3 to 6 months: 17" head circumference & 7" hat height.
Materials: Baby weight yarn & #2 to #3 knitting needles for XSmall to 5 lb preemies; worsted weight yarn & #6 knitting needles for newborn to 6 lb babies; tapestry needle; scissors.
CO 48 sts.
Work in k1-p1 ribbing for 5 rows.
Knit in st. st. for 3-1/2 " (preemies) or 4-1/2" for newborn to 6 months.
K2tog across all sts - reducing your st count from 48 to 24.
Purl across all sts.
K2tog across all sts - leaving a count of 12.
Purl across all sts.
K2tog across all sts - reducing to 6 st count on needle.
Purl across all sts.
Finishing: Cut your with enough of a tail to pull through the last 6 sts … then whip st a seam down the back of your little hat, neatly working in the rib sts to show nicely.
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PREEMIE TUBE SOCKS ~pattern also includes newborn sizing
These little tube socks can be worked in one color - or highlighted with a bicolor ribbing at the top of them.
Materials: MC Fingering, sport, or baby weight yarn (small amount of CC yarn if desired); #2 or #3 knitting needles for XSmall to 5 lb preemies; MC baby weight yarn (small amount of CC yarn if desired) & #4 knitting needles for newborn babies; tapestry needle; scissors.
CO 24 sts.
Knit in st st (k 1 row, purl 1 row) for 3" (XSm to Sm preemie) - 3" (5 lb. preemie) - 4" (newborn).
1 Color finish: K1, P1 across all sts for 14 rows. BO loosely and sew seam.
Bicolor finish: K1, P1 across all sts for 4 rows; add CC yarn and work 1 x 1 ribbing for 2 rows. Using MC again, K 1, P1 for 2 rows. Using CC again, K 1, P1 for 2 rows. Using MC again, K 1, P1 for 4 rows. BO loosely and sew seam.
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